A model for breaker decay and beaches.

W. R. Dally, R. G. Dean, R. A. Dalyrymple

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingChapter

1 Scopus citations


Based on the observation that a shallow water breaking wave propagating over a region of uniform depth will reform and stabilize after some distance, an intuitive expression for the rate of energy dissipation is developed. Using linear wave theory and the energy balance equation, analytical solutions for monochromatic waves breaking on a flat shelf, plane slope, and 'equilibrium' beach profile are presented and compared to laboratory data from Horikawa and Kuo with favourable results. Set down/up in the mean water level, bottom friction losses, and bottom profiles of arbitrary shape are then introduced and the equations solved numerically. The model is calibrated and verified to laboratory data with very good results for wave decay for a wide range of beach slopes and incident conditions, but not so favourable for set up. A test run on a prototype scale profile containing two bar and trough systems demonstrates the model's ability to describe the shoaling, breaking, and wave reformation process commonly observed in nature. Bottom friction is found to play a negligible role in wave decay in the surf zone when compared to shoaling and breaking. (A)

Original languageEnglish (US)
Title of host publicationIN
Subtitle of host publicationPROC. NINETEENTH INT. CONF. ON COASTAL ENGINEERING (HOUSTON, U.S.A.: SEP. 3-7, 1984), B.L. EDGE (ED.)
PublisherAm. Soc. Civ. Engrs
Volume1 , New York, U.S.A., Am. Soc. Civ. Engrs., 1985, Part I, Chapter 6, p.82-98. (ISBN 0-87262-438-2)
ISBN (Print)0872624382, 9780872624382
StatePublished - Jan 1 1985

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Engineering(all)


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