An approximate model for nonlinear dispersion in monochromatic wave propagation models

James T. Kirby*, Robert A. Dalrymple

*Corresponding author for this work

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

121 Scopus citations

Abstract

A method is proposed for smoothly matching an approximate, shallow-water dispersion relation to an analytically obtained relation for intermediate and deep water. The method provides a correct limit for increasing water depth in the case of weakly non-linear waves, and provides a smooth prediction of wave parameters for the entire range of water depth. The model is applied to a parabolic equation form of the combined refraction-diffraction model, and numerical results are presented in comparison to published data.

Original languageEnglish (US)
Pages (from-to)545-561
Number of pages17
JournalCoastal Engineering
Volume9
Issue number6
DOIs
StatePublished - Mar 1986

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Environmental Engineering
  • Ocean Engineering

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