Abstract
From the time when theories were first postulated on beach cusps, intersecting wave trains have been mentioned as one possible mechanism for cusp formation. However, this mechanism has been largely ignored, and no real effort has been made to understand it since Branner's work in 1900. It can be experimentally shown that rip currents, generated by intersecting waves of the same length, can create beach cusps of a known periodicity that depends on the wave length and the angle between the intersecting wave trains.
Original language | English (US) |
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Pages (from-to) | 57-60 |
Number of pages | 4 |
Journal | Bulletin of the Geological Society of America |
Volume | 87 |
Issue number | 1 |
DOIs | |
State | Published - Jan 1 1976 |
Keywords
- Beach cusps
- Marine geology
- Rip currents
- Water waves
ASJC Scopus subject areas
- Geology