Combined refraction-diffraction of nonlinear waves in shallow water.

J. T. Kirby, P. L.F. Liu, S. B. Yoon, R. A. Dalrymple

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingChapter


The parabolic approximation is developed to study the combined refraction/diffraction of weakly nonlinear shallow water waves. Two methods of approach are taken. In the first method Boussinesq equations are used to derive evolution equations for spectral wave components in a slowly varying two dimensional domain. The second method modifies the equation of Kadomtsev and Petviashvili to include numerical results, experimental data and previous numerical calculations. The parabolic equation method appears satisfactory. (A)

Original languageEnglish (US)
Title of host publicationIN
Subtitle of host publicationPROC. NINETEENTH INT. CONF. ON COASTAL ENGINEERING (HOUSTON, U.S.A.: SEP. 3-7, 1984), B.L. EDGE (ED.)
PublisherAm. Soc. Civ. Engrs
Volume1 , New York, U.S.A., Am. Soc. Civ. Engrs., 1985, Part I, Chapter 68, p.999-1015. (ISBN 0-87262-438-2)
ISBN (Print)0872624382, 9780872624382
StatePublished - 1985

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • General Engineering


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