COMPUTER SIMULATION OF BEACH EROSION AND PROFILE MODIFICATION DUE TO WAVES.

H. WANG, R. A. DALRYMPLE, J. C. SHIAU

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

Abstract

THE PHENOMENON OF BEACH EROSION HAS BECOME IMPORTANT IN RECENT YEARS AS THE COASTLINE HAS BECOME A FOCUS OF HUMAN ACTIVITY.IN ORDER THAT ADEQUATE PLANNING IN THE COASTAL ZONE BE POSSIBLE, IT IS NECESSARY TO UNDERSTANT AND TO MODEL THE EVOLVING COASTLINE.A COMPUTER MODEL HAS BEEN DEVELOPED TO PREDICT COASTAL EROSION AS A FUNCTION OF INPUT DEEPWATER WAVE CONDITIONS, TIDAL CONDITIONS AND THE NEARSHORE PRESENT BATHYMETRY.THE MODEL PREDICTS SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE OFFSHORE ZONE DUE TO TRANSPORT OF MATERIAL BY THE WAVE-INDUCED MASS TRANSPORT AND IN THE SURF ZONE, CAUSED PRIMARILY BY THE LONGSHORE CURRENT.EXAMPLES OF THE CAPABILITIES OF THE MODEL ARE PRESENTED, INCLUDING THE MODIFICATION OF THE BEACH PROFILE WITH TIME DUE TO THE UNEVEN LITTORAL DRIFT ACROSS THE SURF ZONE AND THE ALTERNATION OF AN IRREGULAR SHORELINE WITH TIME DUE TO WAVE AND TIDAL EFFECTS.(A).

Original languageEnglish (US)
Pages (from-to)1369-1384
Number of pages16
JournalPROC. 2ND. ANNUAL SYMP. OF WATERWAYS, HARBOURS AND COASTAL ENGNG. DIV. ASCE ON MODELING TECHNIQUES, (MODELING '75 : SAN FRANC
Volume2
Issue number(SEPTEMBER 3-5, 1975)
StatePublished - Jan 1 1975

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Engineering(all)

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