Cross-shore sediment transport determined by EOF method

Raul Medina*, Miguel A. Losada, Robert A. Dalrymple, Antonio Roldan

*Corresponding author for this work

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingConference contribution

6 Scopus citations


Laboratory and field data of beach profile changes are used to study the cross-shore transport rate. The Empirical Orthogonal Eigenfunction analysis is applied to separate the temporal and spatial variability of the onshore/offshore transport. Laboratory data are used to avoid the measuring errors in field surveys and the longshore transport that can mask the cross-shore transport. Results show that when the EOF method is applied to the cross-shore transport rate, the eigenfunction have a physical analog. The first eigenfunction represents the bar-berm generation, and shows a pivotal point for bar-berm sand movement. The second eigenfunction accounts for the bar-berm displacement along the profile. The bar-berm displacement is accomplished by the existence of more pivotal points. When the equilibrium conditions of a profile are suddenly changed, the temporal dependence of the eigenfunctions exhibits a oscillatory transient pattern. Transients show different features, depending on whether the changes lead to an erosional profile or an accretionary profile. Similar results are obtained when the method is applied to field data.

Original languageEnglish (US)
Title of host publicationCoastal Sediments '91; Volume 2
PublisherPubl by ASCE
Number of pages15
ISBN (Print)0872628086
StatePublished - Jan 1 1991
EventProceedings of a Specialty Conference on Quantitative Approaches to Coastal Sediment Processes - Seattle, WA, USA
Duration: Jun 25 1991Jun 27 1991


OtherProceedings of a Specialty Conference on Quantitative Approaches to Coastal Sediment Processes
CitySeattle, WA, USA

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Engineering(all)

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