Prediction of storm/normal beach profiles

Robert A. Dalrymple*

*Corresponding author for this work

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

54 Scopus citations


Using the results of large-scale wave tank tests of monochromatic waves breaking on sandy beaches, Larson and Kraus have shown that storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) equilibrium beach profiles can be segregated in terms of two-dimensionless parameters, which involve wave and sediment characteristics. Here, by rearranging their results, a single dimensionless parameter is developed that predicts the occurrence of storm or normal profiles. The profile parameter (P = gH20/(w3T)) uses deep-water wave characteristics to distinguish the two profile types. Using shallow-water data the shallow-water Dean number, Hbl(wT) can serve the same purpose. Further, a Froude number representation of the sediment fall velocity, w2/(gH0), is shown to be an important parameter for equilibrium profiles.

Original languageEnglish (US)
Pages (from-to)193-200
Number of pages8
JournalJournal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering
Issue number2
StatePublished - Jan 1 1992

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Civil and Structural Engineering
  • Water Science and Technology
  • Ocean Engineering


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