Prediction of storm/normal beach profiles

Robert A. Dalrymple

doi:10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1992)118:2(193)

Prediction of storm/normal beach profiles

Robert A. Dalrymple^*

^*Corresponding author for this work

Civil and Environmental Engineering

Research output: Contribution to journal › Article › peer-review

62 Scopus citations

Abstract

Using the results of large-scale wave tank tests of monochromatic waves breaking on sandy beaches, Larson and Kraus have shown that storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) equilibrium beach profiles can be segregated in terms of two-dimensionless parameters, which involve wave and sediment characteristics. Here, by rearranging their results, a single dimensionless parameter is developed that predicts the occurrence of storm or normal profiles. The profile parameter (P = gH²₀/(w₃T)) uses deep-water wave characteristics to distinguish the two profile types. Using shallow-water data the shallow-water Dean number, H_bl(wT) can serve the same purpose. Further, a Froude number representation of the sediment fall velocity, w²/(gH₀), is shown to be an important parameter for equilibrium profiles.

Original language	English (US)
Pages (from-to)	193-200
Number of pages	8
Journal	Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering
Volume	118
Issue number	2
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1992)118:2(193)
State	Published - Jan 1 1992

ASJC Scopus subject areas

Civil and Structural Engineering
Water Science and Technology
Ocean Engineering

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10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1992)118:2(193)

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title = "Prediction of storm/normal beach profiles",

abstract = "Using the results of large-scale wave tank tests of monochromatic waves breaking on sandy beaches, Larson and Kraus have shown that storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) equilibrium beach profiles can be segregated in terms of two-dimensionless parameters, which involve wave and sediment characteristics. Here, by rearranging their results, a single dimensionless parameter is developed that predicts the occurrence of storm or normal profiles. The profile parameter (P = gH20/(w3T)) uses deep-water wave characteristics to distinguish the two profile types. Using shallow-water data the shallow-water Dean number, Hbl(wT) can serve the same purpose. Further, a Froude number representation of the sediment fall velocity, w2/(gH0), is shown to be an important parameter for equilibrium profiles.",

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N2 - Using the results of large-scale wave tank tests of monochromatic waves breaking on sandy beaches, Larson and Kraus have shown that storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) equilibrium beach profiles can be segregated in terms of two-dimensionless parameters, which involve wave and sediment characteristics. Here, by rearranging their results, a single dimensionless parameter is developed that predicts the occurrence of storm or normal profiles. The profile parameter (P = gH20/(w3T)) uses deep-water wave characteristics to distinguish the two profile types. Using shallow-water data the shallow-water Dean number, Hbl(wT) can serve the same purpose. Further, a Froude number representation of the sediment fall velocity, w2/(gH0), is shown to be an important parameter for equilibrium profiles.

AB - Using the results of large-scale wave tank tests of monochromatic waves breaking on sandy beaches, Larson and Kraus have shown that storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) equilibrium beach profiles can be segregated in terms of two-dimensionless parameters, which involve wave and sediment characteristics. Here, by rearranging their results, a single dimensionless parameter is developed that predicts the occurrence of storm or normal profiles. The profile parameter (P = gH20/(w3T)) uses deep-water wave characteristics to distinguish the two profile types. Using shallow-water data the shallow-water Dean number, Hbl(wT) can serve the same purpose. Further, a Froude number representation of the sediment fall velocity, w2/(gH0), is shown to be an important parameter for equilibrium profiles.

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Prediction of storm/normal beach profiles

Abstract

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