Random wave-current interactions in water of varying depth

M. A. Tayfun, R. A. Dalrymple, C. Y. Yang*

*Corresponding author for this work

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

20 Scopus citations

Abstract

Refraction of incoherent random gravity waves with currents and bottom topography results in spatial variations in the spectral characteristics of the free surface. Prediction of such variations based on the radiation transfer equation is in a simple analytic form for the case of one dimensional inhomogeneities in currents and topography. This analytic form is examined in terms of two-dimensional wave number- and polar frequency-direction spectra along the associated dynamic and kinematic constraints relevant to wave breaking and reflection. Results are specialized to the simplest case of horizontal shear currents in deep and shallow water with explicit examples to illustrate the relative and combined effects of currents and topography on free surface spectra.

Original languageEnglish (US)
Pages (from-to)403-420
Number of pages18
JournalOcean Engineering
Volume3
Issue number6
DOIs
StatePublished - Jan 1 1976

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Environmental Engineering
  • Ocean Engineering

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