Abstract
Refraction of incoherent random gravity waves with currents and bottom topography results in spatial variations in the spectral characteristics of the free surface. Prediction of such variations based on the radiation transfer equation is in a simple analytic form for the case of one dimensional inhomogeneities in currents and topography. This analytic form is examined in terms of two-dimensional wave number- and polar frequency-direction spectra along the associated dynamic and kinematic constraints relevant to wave breaking and reflection. Results are specialized to the simplest case of horizontal shear currents in deep and shallow water with explicit examples to illustrate the relative and combined effects of currents and topography on free surface spectra.
Original language | English (US) |
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Pages (from-to) | 403-420 |
Number of pages | 18 |
Journal | Ocean Engineering |
Volume | 3 |
Issue number | 6 |
DOIs | |
State | Published - Dec 1976 |
ASJC Scopus subject areas
- Environmental Engineering
- Ocean Engineering