Researchers up to the late 1960's who attempted theoretically to model rip currents knew the importance of longshore wave height variability and the wave-induced set-up in the formation of rip currents, but it was not until M. S. Longuet-Higgins and R. W. Stewart (e. g. , 1964) codified the wave momentum flux tensor that great strides were made in providing models for rip currents. This paper is intended to categorize and review the more recent theories for rip current generation and to discuss a simple model for rip currents on barred coastlines. Refs.
ASJC Scopus subject areas
- Ocean Engineering