Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile.

W. R. Dally; R. G. Dean; R. A. Dalrymple

doi:10.1029/jc090ic06p11917

Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile.

W. R. Dally, R. G. Dean, R. A. Dalrymple

Civil and Environmental Engineering

Research output: Contribution to journal › Article › peer-review

268 Scopus citations

Abstract

Using shallow water linear wave theory, analytical solutions for wave height transformation due to shoaling and breaking on a flat shelf, a plane slope, and an 'equilibrium' beach profile are derived and then compared to laboratory data with favourable results. The effect of beach slope on wave decay is included explicitly, while wave steepness effects are included implicitly by specification of the incipient conditions. Bottom friction is found to play a negligible role in wave decay in the surf zone when compared to shoaling and breaking.-from Authors

Original language	English (US)
Pages (from-to)	11,917-11,927
Journal	Journal of Geophysical Research
Volume	90
Issue number	C6
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.1029/jc090ic06p11917
State	Published - 1985

ASJC Scopus subject areas

Geophysics
Forestry
Oceanography
Aquatic Science
Ecology
Water Science and Technology
Soil Science
Geochemistry and Petrology
Earth-Surface Processes
Atmospheric Science
Earth and Planetary Sciences (miscellaneous)
Space and Planetary Science
Palaeontology

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title = "Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile.",

abstract = "Using shallow water linear wave theory, analytical solutions for wave height transformation due to shoaling and breaking on a flat shelf, a plane slope, and an 'equilibrium' beach profile are derived and then compared to laboratory data with favourable results. The effect of beach slope on wave decay is included explicitly, while wave steepness effects are included implicitly by specification of the incipient conditions. Bottom friction is found to play a negligible role in wave decay in the surf zone when compared to shoaling and breaking.-from Authors",

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year = "1985",

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AU - Dean, R. G.

AU - Dalrymple, R. A.

PY - 1985

Y1 - 1985

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AB - Using shallow water linear wave theory, analytical solutions for wave height transformation due to shoaling and breaking on a flat shelf, a plane slope, and an 'equilibrium' beach profile are derived and then compared to laboratory data with favourable results. The effect of beach slope on wave decay is included explicitly, while wave steepness effects are included implicitly by specification of the incipient conditions. Bottom friction is found to play a negligible role in wave decay in the surf zone when compared to shoaling and breaking.-from Authors

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ER -

Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile.

Abstract

ASJC Scopus subject areas

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