Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile.

W. R. Dally, R. G. Dean, R. A. Dalrymple

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

251 Scopus citations

Abstract

Using shallow water linear wave theory, analytical solutions for wave height transformation due to shoaling and breaking on a flat shelf, a plane slope, and an 'equilibrium' beach profile are derived and then compared to laboratory data with favourable results. The effect of beach slope on wave decay is included explicitly, while wave steepness effects are included implicitly by specification of the incipient conditions. Bottom friction is found to play a negligible role in wave decay in the surf zone when compared to shoaling and breaking.-from Authors

Original languageEnglish (US)
Pages (from-to)11,917-11,927
JournalJournal of Geophysical Research
Volume90
Issue numberC6
DOIs
StatePublished - 1985

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Geophysics
  • Forestry
  • Oceanography
  • Aquatic Science
  • Ecology
  • Water Science and Technology
  • Soil Science
  • Geochemistry and Petrology
  • Earth-Surface Processes
  • Atmospheric Science
  • Earth and Planetary Sciences (miscellaneous)
  • Space and Planetary Science
  • Palaeontology

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