Abstract
Using shallow water linear wave theory, analytical solutions for wave height transformation due to shoaling and breaking on a flat shelf, a plane slope, and an 'equilibrium' beach profile are derived and then compared to laboratory data with favourable results. The effect of beach slope on wave decay is included explicitly, while wave steepness effects are included implicitly by specification of the incipient conditions. Bottom friction is found to play a negligible role in wave decay in the surf zone when compared to shoaling and breaking.-from Authors
Original language | English (US) |
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Pages (from-to) | 11,917-11,927 |
Journal | Journal of Geophysical Research |
Volume | 90 |
Issue number | C6 |
DOIs | |
State | Published - 1985 |
ASJC Scopus subject areas
- Geophysics
- Forestry
- Oceanography
- Aquatic Science
- Ecology
- Water Science and Technology
- Soil Science
- Geochemistry and Petrology
- Earth-Surface Processes
- Atmospheric Science
- Earth and Planetary Sciences (miscellaneous)
- Space and Planetary Science
- Palaeontology