Wave simulations in Ponce de Leon Inlet using Boussinesq model

An improved curvilinear grid model based on fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations is used to simulate wave propagation in Ponce de Leon Inlet, Fla. We employ the nearshore bathymetry of Ponce de Leon Inlet and generate a stretched curvilinear grid that can resolve shortwaves in the nearshore region and fit the complex geometry. Simulations of 18 cases with monochromatic input waves and Texel-Marsden-Arsloe spectral waves are carried out on the same scale as in the 1:100 scale physical model conducted at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center. Wave height comparisons, time series comparisons of surface elevation for monochromatic wave cases, and comparisons of power spectrum for spectral wave cases are made between numerical results and laboratory measurements. Comparison is also made between the probability distribution of surface elevation and skewness and asymmetry measures for both the measured data and the Boussinesq model results. It is shown that for the computations of nonlinear wave transformation over irregular bathymetry, the Boussinesq model is able to predict nonlinear wave features and is thus a more accurate model than some conventional models in shallow water.